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New Zealand Journal

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11/13/87
Friday dawned not as perfect as Thursday, but nice enough to warrant our longest tramp yet - up Mt. Tarawera, the volcano that exploded in 1886. On Tuesday evening we visited the Buried Village which had lots of historical info & bottles, bed frames, etc. that had been dug up since the eruption. Some feared medicine man or something - Maori - had predicted that something catastrophic was going to occur days before it happened - he was buried for three days and the rest of his tribe refused to dig him out, thinking him responsible for it - white men finally rescued him, but he died in a couple of days anyway.

ANYWAY, we took a tramp up Mt. Tarawera, and it was incredible! Looking down into the crater was awesome - the colors of the rock, vivid red especially, were really something. We reached it just in time too, as clouds were rolling in, the wind picking up too, eventually obscuring everything, so that we were prevented from seeing the entire view of all the surrounding lakes, etc. but still saw the top of it all. By the time we headed down it was like walking thru a thick fog, just able to see the path before us, hoping we'd have no trouble finding our way back down! It was a neat hike!

From there we drove back into town & visited the Polynesian Pools - got a private hot tub, and really unwound! They also have mineral pools; Radium hot springs, a big pool - all steamy stuff!

After that we wandered around downtown Rotorua, found the two town theatres, and then had a light dinner in the car by the lakeside, being entertained by the seagulls there who were voracious & vocal in their desire for handouts of our croissants.

Then the Majestic Theatre, where we saw Sean Connery in "The Name of the Rose" - treat murder mystery set in mideavil times; then back for another night here at Fisherman's. It poured rain most all night, but we remained cozy and dry on our sheepskins. Had a nice b'fast over in the kitchen here this a.m., visited with an older man from Tauranga, and now are updating our logs - hop to go fishing today, and to visit Hell's Gate.

This campground is very nice, has succeeding "levels" going up the hill, with a view of Lake Tarawera and of Mt. Tarawera, which reminds me some of Mt. St. Helens, the way its top is gone, flat, leveled off, as opposed to being pointy. Can't see it today, but Thurs. it was outrageous!

One thing that continues to enhance our experience of New Zealand is the visits with the Kiwis. For example at a gas station we stopped at in town yesterday, the man running it gave us half-price coupons for the Polynesian Pools. And after borrowing the canoe at Blue Lake, we visited with the family who runs the campground when we returned it - they were having dinner outside in the back; always nice to hear the opinions & advice of the people - also they had a friendly Collie!

The couple who runs this place is also very friendly. The man reminds me of some famous actor from earlier days who was often in horror movies - deeply chiseled face - cheekbones, deep set eyes; kidded us yesterday when we set out for our tramp up Mt. Trawera that if we weren't back by midnight he'd send out a search party.

On the road from here into Rotorua we'd stopped to shop at a little veggie place and the butcher - the butcher was very friendly & enjoyable to talk with. People usually ask where you're from, exchange stories of others they've met or places they've been or heard of.

Being at Mt. Maunganui (especially on Monday the 9th) was really nice. Talking with people at the surf shops (Jim did this especially, while I tried on lots of bathing suits - sort of wish I'd bought one, they had some real cute ones) - and of course, being approached by Adam was quite amusing - this little 21 yr. Old ("you have beautiful eyes") but he was very friendly - said I was the first tourist he'd spoken with this season - it was interesting to exchange information, to listen to that accent, to hear the correct pronunciation of some of these places - he told me I'd never be able to "speak like a proper Kiwi"! Watching him and Willie later at the pub (an obvious hangout with plenty of tough-looking Maoris and surfer boys), their eyes barely open, hardly focusing, trying to successfully take aim at the billiard balls - they'd expected to get some smokes at the pub, (promising us "a blow"), but a call came in for Adam, and he had to go home to tea!

Yesterday a.m. we searched for a place for b'fast before our hike - stopped at one hotel restaurant - $1400/each (choke) - went to a less pricy place where we'd missed b'fast time but a friendly waitress offered us toast, coffee, and cold cereal ("rice bubbles" for me!) - which was a good amount and only came to $19.00 total!!! One thing we've learned is to AVOID RESTAURANTS IF AT ALL POSSIBLE! They're all too too dearly priced. Take-aways aren't bad, and doint it yourself is quite cheap. It's apparent that restaurants are almost exclusively for tourists, and a good percentage of the tourists are older (richer) people, who are happy to pay who knows what ridiculous price to stay at a Best Western.

The man we talked with in the kitchen area this a.m. told us that down by the lake there's a hotel that charges over $1,000 a night for their special suites! Outrageous. Makes $6.50 per person for a campsite look might fine!

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